For
pilgrims, destination is more spiritual than geographical - by Riz
Khan, CNN.
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The Great Mosque in Mecca surrounds the best known structure
symbolizing Islam -- the Kaaba.
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The Hajj is misunderstood.
Not only by non-Muslims, but also
by many of those who practice the faith. To some degree, the
misunderstanding comes from the fact that it's not until a Muslim actually
goes on this pilgrimage that he or she starts to get some idea of what
it's all about and what it really involves spiritually.
Usually, any religious obligation
or duty seems to gain an air of sombre importance. Well, for a Muslim, it is
an important event -- but not necessarily quite so sombre. The Hajj is one
of the Five Pillars of Islam: At least once in a lifetime, any Muslim who
is able, financially and physically, to complete this journey must do so.
Most people might imagine the Hajj
to be a complicated and perhaps demanding version of a Catholic confession
-- a visit to God's holiest site for Muslims to plead forgiveness for
sins. (Perhaps with a fear that one's sins might be so bad that they can't
be overlooked.) In fact, the Hajj is a very happy affair. Essentially,
it's a gathering of more than 2 million people who have achieved a
"mission of a lifetime." They've arrived at the geographical and
physical heart of their religion, so pilgrims are usually elated to have
made it to Mecca -- or Makkah, to use the old name that has been
reinstated. Mecca marks the spot where, according to tradition, the
prophet Abraham first built a shrine to worship God. It was a caravan
crossroads through rocky outcroppings in the desert, which grew into a
modern, noisy, bustling center.
During the Hajj, the atmosphere is
more one of celebration in and around the city, which is open only to
Muslims. In a way, that exclusion of non-Muslims is a pity. It prevents
much of the world from seeing what a mixed community Islam embraces. There
are the colorfully dressed, and often loud and cheerful, Africans -- many
from Nigeria. Small, closely huddled groups of women from Indonesia and
the Philippines often wind their way through the huge crowds that take
over Mecca. A chorus of Indians, Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, Bosnians, Arabs
... it's truly a melting pot. Men, women and children are all equally in
awe of this place they've known only through pictures, and perhaps
television.
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Pilgrims come from around the world to attend the Hajj.
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Add to that jam-packed streets and
a mix of languages, and it's amazing that hardly a voice is raised in
anger, or confrontation witnessed. Everyone really tries to help each
other through this annual miracle of logistics and mass movement of
people. And that's what the Hajj mostly is -- a movement through the
desert. The pilgrims flood into Mecca by air, sea, motor vehicles and
sometimes still the odd camel caravan, which is how it was done in the
"old" days.
Many pilgrims arrive having made a
trip to the huge Prophet's Mosque in Medina -- a city that first became
home to Mohammed, when he and his early followers were driven out of
Mecca. It's considered a great blessing to pray at this remarkable mosque.
Once in Mecca, the first goal of
the pilgrims is to get over to the Great Mosque that surrounds the best
known structure symbolizing Islam -- the Kaaba. The Kaaba is a cubic stone
structure the size of a modest house, but it's clad in a black silk cloth,
with Arabic embroidered onto it in gold. Pilgrims rush to see this sight
to remind themselves that they've actually arrived at the heart of Islam
-- the center of their religion. The Kaaba is the location that Muslims
turn to pray toward daily. Blessings for prayers in the holy Great Mosque
are considered to be multiplied thousands of times.
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The Kaaba is the shrine that Muslims turn to five times each day
when praying. During the Hajj, pilgrims circle the Kaaba seven
times.
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But it comes as a surprise to most
that the core purpose of the Hajj is not to look out on the wonders of the
Kaaba and the beautiful mosque, but to look within -- to discover oneself.
The pilgrimage involves a trek through the desert to the tent city at
Mina, and from there, on to the plain of Arafat. It was here on a small
hill that Mohammed preached his last sermon, declaring that Muslims must
conduct the pilgrimage in this particular manner. It was a ritual dating
back to the time of Abraham and follows mostly the events he experienced
in affirming his faith to God. That final sermon by Mohammed set in stone
the pilgrimage duty for those who were to follow Islam for centuries on.
The Hajj pilgrims stay in Arafat
until sunset before weaving their way back to Mecca, again, via Mina. But
it's those crucial hours in the desert where Muslims are supposed to
discover what the Hajj is all about. That time is meant to be the most
honest in a person's life -- an honest reflection on all that a person has
done right and wrong. Then comes the request to God for forgiveness, and
the chance to make a fresh start.
In a way, it's not what you do
during the Hajj that matters.
It's what you do after, and perhaps
there comes the understanding.
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